Have you ever wondered what it is going to take to get me started fly fishing? I would like to take a moment to go over the tools of a successful fly fisher and safety tips for when you go out on the water.
Please note that, in all reality, all you need for fly fishing is a rod and flies. But the point of this article is to go over the gear you will find in the marketplace and items that will help you with your fishing adventure, as well as tips to make your next trip safe and memorable.
In short, a fly fishing kit for beginners should consist of six things: a rod, a reel, fly line, a leader, tippet, and a handful of flies. Everything else on this page just makes the day easier or safer. A solid beginner setup runs about $150 to $300, and the simplest way there is a matched starter kit that arrives ready to fish.
The Non-Negotiables
This is the fly fishing gear for beginners that you cannot fish without, so if your budget is tight this is where it goes first.
Rod: A 9-foot 5-weight is what I put in almost every beginner's hand. It throws dry flies and nymphs without complaint, it is forgiving while your cast is still coming together, and it fishes fine on a small creek or a bigger river. You are looking at roughly $50 to $100 for the rod as part of a kit. I cover the rigging over in how to set up a fly rod.
Reel: For trout, most of the time the reel is just holding your line, so your first one does not need to be fancy. Get one rated for your rod weight, so a 5/6 reel for that 5-weight rod, and make sure the drag actually turns. That is enough to start.
Fly Line: Beginners spend a lot of attention on the rod and almost none on the line, which is backwards. In fly fishing it is the weight of the line that carries the fly out to the fish, so the line does more work than people expect. Get a weight-forward floating line to match your rod, which for a 5-weight rod means a line marked WF-5-F.
Leader: A 9-foot tapered leader in 4X or 5X is a fine place to start for trout. The taper is what lets the line straighten out and drop your fly down without a splash.
Tippet: This is the thin line you tie your fly onto at the business end. Keep spools of 4X, 5X, and 6X in your pack and you can cover most of the trout fishing you are likely to do.
Flies: You do not need hundreds to start. Thirty or forty flies will get you a long way, in a spread of nymphs, a few dry flies, and a couple of streamers, mostly in sizes 12 through 18. If you would rather not stand in front of a wall of bins trying to guess, the Guide Nymphs Kit is put together with proven patterns in the sizes that catch trout.
The Fly Fishing Essentials
You will not go home empty-handed without these fly fishing essentials, but a day on the water is a lot smoother with them. They are cheap, and they fit in a pocket, so most people pick them up early.
Hat: I know this sounds stupid and simple, but a fishing hat is probably one of my most favorite tools on the river. It protects from mosquitos, sun, and foul hooks. It is also handy after a dip into the river on a hot day to soak your head.
Sunglasses: I recommend polarized sunglasses. Polarized sunglasses cut the glare off the top of the water, making it easier to spot fish and see your fly on the water. They also protect your eyes from harmful UV rays and also from foul hooks. I also recommend getting rope retainers to go with your sunglasses in case you fall into the water. There is nothing worse than getting wet and then finding out you also lost your sunglasses.
Rain Coat: Yes, another item that sounds elementary, but you would be surprised how fast a storm can move on you. And if you are out on the river having a blast catching fish, you don’t want a little rain to ruin your day. Also, the biggest fish I have ever caught was in the middle of a downpour.
Net: The type of fish you’re fishing for will determine the size of the net you will need. Classic fishing nets are made out of wood and fabric. But now you can also find nets made with larger thresholds and clear rubber netting.
I have found that clear rubber netting is fantastic. Your fly does not get stuck inside, and the net becomes almost invisible under water so as not to scare the fish. There are numerous companies on the market making nets, and they’re a great tool to add to your fishing arsenal.
But how do I carry around a net while I’m fishing all day? Easy.
You can place the net inside your back pants, or you can get a net leash that hooks to your vest. I love these; I know where my net is at all times, and it’s easy to hook it back on after I land a fish.
Fly Box: One of the staple fly fishing essentials for carrying your Drifthook Fly Systems.
Clippers: These are also known as “teeth savers.” This is a handy tool to clip your line after making a knot.
Forceps or Clamps: These are great for clamping on split shot, pulling small flies out of your fly box, and most importantly retrieving your fly out of a fish’s mouth after you have caught it. I typically carry two, because at least once during every trip, I accidentally drop them in the water, and sometimes I’m in a deep section where they are irretrievable.
Slip Shot or Weights: These come in various sizes and shapes, and they are essential with the Drifthook Fly Fishing System. I am a fan of the bead weights, but some people prefer twists. This item comes down to personal preference.
Floatant: Floatant is a liquid or powder that helps keep your dry fly above water longer. I use Gink, because it was the first to come out over 30 years ago. But there are numerous varieties on the market that will fit your fishing style.
Indicator: Like many things in fly fishing, you will find a thousand different types of these. I recommend using clear bobbers because they are virtually invisible to fish below the surface. Colored bobbers are great for beginning to see the action of the line on the water, but fish get deterred or excited by these unnatural colors on the water. I can’t tell you how many times I have had a pink bobber on and a fish has come up to try and eat it, thinking it was a meal. After switching over to a clear bobber, I caught bigger and larger quantities of fish.
The Can-Wait Items
Everything here is worth owning eventually, but none of it has to be in the cart before your first trip. On a warm day, you can wade in old shoes and shorts and have a great time, so pick these up once you know the sport has its hooks in you. If nymphing is the direction you are heading, our basic guide to nymphing is a good read before you spend much.
Vest: This, in essence, is a fly fisher’s tool belt. The classic is a typical vest that has numerous pockets for flies, line, weights, and any other small items you might need. In recent years, companies have also come out with amazing daypacks, waist packs, and chest packs. Check out what is out there to see what fits your style the best.
Waders: These are thick, waterproof pants that keep you dry throughout the day. When I first started fishing, I thought I could do with just an old pair of shoes and some shorts, but I soon found out that I got cold long before I was able to get to where the fish were rising. After I was gifted my first set of waders, I was able to fish long past sundown. They are not necessary, but I highly recommend them.
There are two basic types of waders: neoprene or synthetic. Neoprene waders are very durable and great for extremely cold conditions. Synthetic waders are lightweight and semi-breathable. Depending on where you live, or where you are headed on your next fishing trip, one might be better than the other. Just like a regular pair of pants, the quality will differ from one company to the next, so I recommend going to your local fly shop and trying on a few pairs to see which you like best. Most shops have huge discounts in September and October, so look for the best deals then.
Wader Belt: This brings up my third and most important safety tip: Water is dangerous. It is beautiful and magical, but it can take a life as quickly as it passes by. There have been two times in my life when I was truly scared of the water. The first time I was young and the current swept me off my feet and I couldn’t get a footing to stand up. Luckily, a friend grabbed me by the hair and lifted me to my feet.
The second time I was scared, I was fly fishing and went out a little farther than I should have and the water came up and over my chest. Without a wader belt, the water would have filled up my boots and acted like cement chains to drag me to my end.
ALWAYS wear a belt! This will help keep gallons of water from filling your shoes if you happen to slip into a deep hole.
Wader Boots: These are boots designed to go over your waders. Some waders come with boots on them, and these are also great for duck hunting in cold weather, but they can be cumbersome if you’re hiking around looking for that perfect hidden spot.
Think of wading boots as you would hiking shoes: They come in all styles and shapes and offer varying levels of support. I prefer a high-top boot with good ankle support to help me navigate rocks and terrain on the river.
You also will have multiple options for grip or soles.
A. Rubber Soles: Great for being on a drift boat or raft, or when you plan on hiking long distances.
B. Spiked Rubber Soles: Great for icy conditions but not great for moss or clean rocks, but don’t plan on getting on a boat unless you plan on walking home.
C. Felt: My favorite sole. Felt is the best all-around sole for slippery rocks on the river. It’s also great for boats because it won’t pop the seal. When the felt hits the water, it acts as an additional grip that sticks to slime, ice, mud, sand, and pretty much anything else your foot might come in contact with.
D. Combos: Some soles are felt with spikes. Some are rubber and felt. You’ll find just about every combination. I recommend starting with felt and then experimenting with other soles as soon as you get more comfortable on the water.
If you ever want to make sense of the size numbers stamped on your flies, our guide to fly fishing hook sizes lays it out.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fly fishing gear do beginners need to start?
The core fly fishing gear for beginners is a rod, a reel, fly line, a leader, tippet, and flies. For trout that usually means a 9-foot 5-weight rod, a reel to match it, a weight-forward floating line, a 9-foot 4X or 5X leader, a few spools of tippet, and thirty or so flies. The rest of what is on this page is comfort and convenience.
How much does fly fishing gear cost to get started?
Most beginners get on the water for $150 to $300 if they buy a matched kit. Piece everything together on your own, and it climbs past $400 in a hurry, and a lot of that goes on choices you are not ready to make yet. Fish a kit for a season, then upgrade the parts you have opinions about.
What gear is essential versus nice to have?
The rod, reel, line, leader, tippet, and flies are your fly fishing essentials, because without them you are not fishing. A net, nippers, forceps, floatant, a hat, and polarized sunglasses are the nice-to-haves that make a day easier. Waders, boots, and a vest sit further down the list and can be borrowed or skipped until you are sure you are in this for the long haul.
Can I start with just a kit?
You can, and for most people it is the sensible way in. A decent fly fishing kit gives you a rod, reel, and line that are already matched, which is where beginners most often go wrong buying separately, plus a leader and flies to get you casting. It usually costs less than assembling the same setup one item at a time.
How should I organize and store my gear?
Keep your flies sorted by type in one box so you are not digging through everything to find a nymph, and clip the tools you reach for most, your nippers, forceps, and floatant, to the outside of your pack. When you get home, let everything dry, hang your waders inside out so they do not go musty, and keep your flies somewhere dry so the hooks do not rust.
About the Author
This guide was written by Matthew Bernhardt, a Colorado-based angler with more than 35 years of experience fly fishing Western rivers. He is the founder and owner of Drifthook Fly Fishing, which he has operated since 2015.
Matthew focuses on helping anglers better understand trout behavior, river structure, seasonal changes, and presentation so they can make smarter decisions on the water.
